September 2021 Itinerary & Trip Notes

Overview: Dubrovnik (4 days) > Split (1 day) > Adriatic Coast Sailing (7 days) > Plitvice Lakes National Park (2 days) > Ljubljana (3 days) > Lake Bled (2 days) > Soca River (2 days) > Italian/Swiss Alps (3 days) > Zurich/Berner Oberland (7 days)

Bottom Line: What started out as a weeklong family sailing vacation in Croatia, planned before COVID altered everyone’s plans in 2020, morphed into a monthlong adventure across Croatia and neighboring Slovenia built around that week of sailing, winding up in Emily’s adopted home of Switzerland by way of the Italian Alps. All of these regions are absolutely stunning. So… 4 countries, 5 islands, 11 towns for lodging, many others visited en route, 130 nautical miles sailing, 965 miles driving, and 100 miles or so of mountain hiking later, this may have been the best trip yet. Very little I would do differently. (Though if you are into sailing, you could cut out that week and, time permitting, spend more time in the Soca River Valley or possibly visit Zagrab — Croatia’s capital I’ve heard is great — or Zadar further up the coast.)

---

Dates	Destination	Where We Stayed
Day 1-4	Dubrovnik	“Niko’s Place”

Michelle and I began our long overdue, COVID delayed-long Eastern European holiday — in the historic city of Dubrovnik. For centuries, Dubrovnik rivaled Venice for maritime domination of the known world. It’s wall Old City is a UNESCO World Heritage site and more recently known as the locale for “King’s Landing” of Game of Thrones fame. It was the perfect place to start our exploration of Croatia. Highlights:

• Great apartment at ground zero outside city walls, and our host Niko was fantastic, even picking us up at the airport.
• Walk the old town city walls on your own, start early to beat crowds and sun. 
• Guided historical tour of old town and surrounds with Game of Thrones accent was fun. Lots of tour guides available on Airbnb.
• Boat to Lokrum Island made a great day trip in a beautiful setting, with a cool 600-year old monastery, a beautiful and easy hike around the island through unspoiled nature and occasional ancient ruins and terrific views back to Dubrovnik — and the topper, swimming in the crystal blue Adriatic Sea from a massive volcanic “beach” (water shoes are helpful) very popular with the locals.
• Take the gondola to the top of Mount Srd for an amazing sunset overlooking the walled city. Dinner at the summit is possible but pricey. Have to get there early to get a table with a view. Or bring your own bottle of wine and sit on the cliff drinking it all in like the locals do.
• Dinners at Lady Pi Pi, Kopun and Azul were all excellent, highly recommended.
• Plavac Mali wine from the Peljesac peninsula. 
• Buza Bar on the cliffs abutting the city wall – great place to relax with a drink or two in the late afternoon – and once again, diving into the sea and climbing back out for your drink is all the rage here.

More Photos

---

Day 5-6

Makarska & Split

Clock Tower Apartment

Departing Dubrovnik, we rented a car and drove to Split via the coastal road for maximum beauty and good lunch stop in the seaside town of Makarska (5 hour drive with stop). While a longer drive than the direct inland route, it was well worth the extra time to get the beautiful views and glimpse the small, seaside towns, much like California’s Highway 1 (but older).

Arriving in Split, we met up with our girls, Josh and Alex, nephew Dan, and Anna’s college roommate, Sarah. Our apartment atop Diocletian’s Palace, ground zero for Split, was good for a large group like ours, otherwise I wouldn’t recommend it as it’s pretty spartan and not particularly comfortable for Michelle’s taste. My least favorite place on the entire trip, but the palace is fascinating and it served well as a point to meet up ahead of our sailing trip. Highlights:

• A guided historical tour is very worthwhile for uncovering the history and hidden niches of the Diocletian’s Palace, and our guide — a young woman who had actually worked on some of the restoration — was very funny and entertaining
• Gin is popular in Split, so gin & tonics at KaKantun Specialty Coffee and Gin Bar was a big hit with the group.

---

Days 7-13

Sailing Trip

Nautilus Sailing

The centerpiece of our trip was a seven-day, bareboat cruising adventure along the Adriatic coast out of Marina Kastela, near Split, with a hired local skipper. Chartered our 45’ Lagoon 450 catamaran from Nautilus Sailing, who provided outstanding service as we booked, had to cancel during Covid, and then rebooked the next year. 

Overnighted at islands Šolta, Brač (once heading out and again coming back), Pakleni Otoci (across from Hvar), and Vis (one night each at Vis Town and Komiza). Two very special treats were lavish dinners high in the mountains at local ranches arranged by our skipper, Martin. Bucket list adventure for sure; one non-stop highlight, though in hindsight, I would consider a one way sailing trip from Dubrovnik to Split or the reverse in order to get to Korcula, Lastova and Mljet, too.

Highlights from each day, starting with our first — sailing from Marina Kastela to Masalinka, then another more picturesque, unnamed bay for our first night anchorage at Šolta…

…before heading out the next morning for a day of cruising and swimming along the east coast of Hvar. We docked for the night in Stari Grad (yet another UNESCO World Heritage site) and headed up high in the hills for cocktails, a little bocce ball, and the most incredible dinner at Konoba Rugonj — octopus baked peka style with seemingly endless local wine. Definitely a highlight that will be hard to beat!

Next morning, we made our way around the point for Pakleni Otoci, a chain of small islands directly across from Hvar Town, the crowded and glitzy tourist hot spot we opted to peek at before moving on. Lots of good anchorages, low key beach bars, and amazingly beautiful water.

Next stop — Two days on the island of Vis, once a military base when Croatia was part of Yugoslavia, both beautiful and off limits to tourists, including Yugoslav civilians. We got lucky with fair weather and mild swell from the southwest so we could anchor comfortably at Komiža for a night, with second night tucked in at Vis town harbor. Had fun exploring both towns by foot with some nice sailing (motoring), great swimming stops, including the cool hole-in-the-wall beach at Stiniva, and magical sunsets along the way.

Our penultimate sailing day took us back to the island of Brač, anchoring in Milna and heading back into the hills for another fantastic local gourmet experience, country style. The next morning, we finished up our Dalmatian coast cruising trip with a final day swimming and relaxing on Solta.

---

More Photos:   Split and Šolta   |   Šolta, Hvar, and Pakleni Otoci   |   Vis  |   Brač

---

Day 14-15

Plitvice Lakes National Park

B&B Plitvicka Lodge

After returning to our yacht base, we said goodbye to most of our crew before Emily and Alex, Anna, and Michelle and I picked up a new rental car and drove three hours north along the coast and then inland to the mountain home of Plitvice Lakes National Park, yet another UNESCO World Heritage site (our 4th in Croatia) and one of the most striking natural wonders in all of Europe.

After an afternoon relaxing at our lodge, we spent a day exploring the 12 kilometers of boardwalks and stone staircases around 16 lakes and dozens of waterfalls and caves formed by natural travertine and tufa barriers created by calcium carbonate in the water and limestone rock interacting for eons.

I highly recommend staying at B&B Plitvica Lodge, a beautiful retreat where our host Karlo and his niece Martina served up authentic home cooking — Croatian goulash one night and peka style baked chicken and mushroom pasta the next, with good local wines — and kept the Rakija flowing!  Incredible hospitality. Read my review on TripAdvisor. 

---

Day 16-18

Ljubljana, Slovenia

Antiq Palace Hotel

After two spectacular weeks in Croatia, we head north for three days in Ljubljana, the small and very charming capital of Slovenia. Light on “must see” tourist attractions, it’s just a great city to hang out in, explore the river walk and backstreets, and relax. The border crossing by car was interesting, as you must first go through a Croatian checkpoint and then, 30 yards ahead, a Slovenian checkpoint — with identical document handling requirements. Highlights:

• Our hotel was a very nice, comfortable splurge, just a block off the riverwalk – though the price wasn’t terribly high. I recommend it, if it works for your budget.
• The free walking tour (tips expected) from the TI office was very worthwhile. Emphasized both the architecture of local hero, as well as France Prešeren, Ljubljana’s favorite poet, and Yugoslav/Slovenian history, which was centered here, including revolution and the evolution from communism to democracy.
• One hour boat tour on the Ljubljanska River that winds through the heart of the city, with a beautiful view of the castle framed by the river. Well worth the 10 Euro price.
• Day hike through the large and leafy Tivoli Park was nice. The outdoor tavern in the shade at the top of the hill was a welcome break from the sun, too.
• Evening mini-opera performed in a square under the floodlit castle, sitting on folding chairs with cocktails in hand, was a cool treat.
• Kolibri Cocktail Bar, the best speakeasy in town and only 50 meters from our hotel.

More Photos

---

Day 19-20

Lake Bled

Penzion Kaps

Only four of our original 10 travelers remaining, we head to Lake Bled, barely an hour north of Ljubljana and a place everyone we’ve met and all I’ve read says is fairly magical. Definitely has the fairytale look, though it’s pretty commercial and finely tuned to take tourist $$ at every opportunity. That said, we packed a lot into two days and even got to take in the 2021 International Rowing Regatta up close and personal. Highlights:

• 3 hour hike around the lake was beautiful and a great way to take it in from every angle. We took a detour up to Bled Castle on the cliff overlooking the lake with its terrific views, and stopped for a cocktail at the famous Vila Bled on the home stretch.
• Take the famous Pletna boat to visit the tiny church on the lake’s picturesque island. If you like, you can pay 13 Euros to go inside the Church of the Assumption, make a wish, and ring the tower bell (picture the Hunchback of Notre Dame tugging that giant rope!)
• Day trip hiking Vintgar Gorge was a highlight. The gorge and its river are stunning, and the vantage point from the boardwalks along the river can’t be beat.
• Day trip to Lake Bohinj, at the base of the Julian Alps, is very worthwhile if you have a third day. Or, you can do as we did and hit it on the way to the Soca River valley.

More Photos

---

Day 21-22

Soca River Valley

Pristava Lepena

After leaving Bled, we made our way to the Soča River Valley in the Julian Alps, with a short visit to Lake Bohinj en route to our new home base at Pristava Lepena. The mountains and Soča River drainage are spectacular and left little doubt we’ve left “the city” behind. Great hiking and good food amidst stunning natural beauty make for a very good night’s sleep! Highlights:

• Lake Bohinj is beautiful, tucked into the base of the Julian Alps in Triglav National Park. Great hiking around the lake and the small villages are charming. With more time, it would be good for a night or two, and it is well known as a starting point for extended hikes into the Alps.
• Car train from Bohinjska Bistrica to Most Na Soči was unique and fun, including a ride through a tunnel in the mountains over 6 kilometers long.
• Pristava Lepena is a rustic ranch style lodge with Lippizaner Stallions and great access to hikes in the Alps (including trails along the famous WWI Soča Front, site of brutal battles between Italian and Austro-Hungarian armies) and along the beautiful, green Soča River. Great fly fishing and easy rafting/kayaking optional.
• While we did not get a chance to do this, the nearby Vršič Pass between Trenta and Kranjska Gora is supposed to be a spectacular, if not thrilling, drive.

More photos

---

Day 23-24

Lago di Braies, IT

Hotel Pragser Wildsee

Leaving Slovenia, we drove from Slovenia into Italy via a mountain pass near Učja, a spectacular drive that included a 15km, one way, white-knuckle cliffside road that that Emily called the most terrifying road she’s ever traveled, including the infamous Death Road in Bolivia! After the pass, lunch in any small mountain village will do just fine.

After 3 hours of driving the Tyrolean Alps, we made our destination of Lago di Braies — a very popular resort destination, we learned on arrival, even for local day trippers — in the middle of the Dolomites (yet another UNESCO World Heritage site). Also callled Pragser Wildsee, depending on whether you speak Italian or German, the region was originally Austrian but was given to Italy after WWI, thus it retains heritage from both. These two days of some of the most spectacular mountain scenery I’ve ever seen. If we had more time, I’d spend a week in the Dolomites. Highlights:

• Staying at the Hotel Pragser Wildsee is a must, both because it’s wonderful and it’s really the only option other than rustic Airbnb’s. If you do, get the half-board, as the food is outstanding and you get a better deal on price.
• Great, easy hike around the lake covers about 3 miles of spectacular geology and scenery tucked into a mountain bowl.
• Take a romantic rowboat on the lake because, well, you just can’t come here and not do it.
• There are many bigger day hikes all around the Dolomites; we did the hike to the summit of Monte Specie and back — a short drive from Lago di Braies — and it was great, both for the uniquely stunning beauty and the historical WWI sites along the route. Be sure to stop at the Strudelkopf alpine hut stop for lunch.

More Photos

---

Day 25-26

Guarda, Switzerland

Boutique Hotel Romatika

On leaving Lago di Braies, we took a gorgeous drive along the Alpine highway, ultimately climbing Stelvio Pass (another incredibly scenic but white-knuckle drive) into Switzerland’s Graubunden region, through CH’s only national park, to the small, charming Swiss mountain village of Guarda with no plan and no reservations. Romantika is affiliated with the Hotel Meisser, a very nice resort hotel overlooking the mountains and valley below. Great place for a day or two, and more endless hiking options. Highlights:

• A general lack of foreign tourists and no big attractions: just a sleepy alpine town for beautiful views and relaxing strolls (or ambitious mountain hikes, had we more time).
• Sunset cocktails from the spacious garden at Hotel Meisser.
• Dinner at Restaurant Dalet, affiliated with the Meisser Lodge, was outstanding. Highly recommend.

After leaving Guarda, we had a lovely drive to Zurich for a one day layover, staying at Hotel Krone Unterstrasse, a comfortable but unremarkable business class hotel near Emily’s neighborhood. The Altstadt (old town) would be much better for first-timers exploring Zurich.

---

Day 27-30

Lauterbrunen/Gimmelwald Grindelwald

Pension Gimmelwald Eiger Selfness Hotel & Spa

After a recharge day in Zurich, we reunited with Alex and headed off to the Berner Oberland, taking the train from Zurich to Lauterbrunnen, then gondola up to Grutschalp, followed by gorgeous 6km backpack across the Valley View trail to Murren, and finally a short gondola ride to the tiny village of Gimmelwald, perched high on the mountain overlooking the valley.

We spent two days in Gimmelwald and a third night and two days in Grindelwald. More spectacular mountain scenery dominated by the iconic Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau peaks, mind blowing hikes up and down steep river canyons, and general lack of crowds – at least in Gimmelwald. Great way to finish our mountain adventures this trip. Highlights:

• This region is what Switzerland and the Alps are all about. The absolute pinnacle, and the spectacular vistas, fresh air, and glorious mountain vibe just don’t stop.
• The journey by train to Lauterbrunnen and gondola to Grutschalp (and down from Gimmelwald) were a highlight themselves. The gondola is quite a thrill.
• Our lodge in Gimmelwald was fantastic – true Swiss mountain lodging, with drop-dead views, lovely people, good food, and their very own, delicious beer Schwarz Monch!
• Fantastic day hikes to Chilchbalm (17km round trip from Gimmelwald) and Trachsellauenen (15km out and back from Stechelberg). The former led to a gorgeous canyon head with caves, waterfalls and wildflowers; the latter led to a rustic mountain hut serving hot lunch and schnapps.
• Day hike to Bachalpsee from First (12km round trip, after a long, scenic gondola ride from Grindelwald), one of several hiking options in the region. Bachalpsee was a pretty, lakeside destination with great alpine views, and the “thrill walk” along the cliffs at First was truly thrilling.
• Grindelwald is more crowded — a major tourist hub — and not quite as beautiful as Lauterbrunnen valley, but it is still pretty spectacular and easy access to Eiger and Kleine Scheiddig hiking. (We had hoped to hike the Eiger Trail from Alpiglen to Eigergletscher and then on to Kleine Scheidegg via the Jungfrau Eiger Trail but didn’t have time.)
• Our hotel in Grindelwald was quite nice and had an excellent restaurant and the best hotel spa/hammam experience I’ve ever had. I recommend it.
• The Avocado Bar in Grindelwald is the spot to get beers and relax on the back deck staring at the Eiger North Face.

More Photos

---

Day 31-32

Zurich

Hotel Kindli

So after 4 countries, 5 islands, 11 towns for lodging, many others visited en route, 130 nautical miles sailing, 965 miles driving, and 100 miles or so of mountain hiking, we finally returned to the “big city” of Zurich for the last couple days of our trip. We splurged on very nice hotel in Zurich’s Old Town. Fun dinner at traditional Zeughauskeller and very nice dinner at Oepfelchammer restaurant.