2019 Itinerary and Trip Notes

This is the first of what I hope will be many future posts on fun, exciting and educational trips we’ve taken that help answer the frequent questions that usually accompany returning home. Like: Where’d you go? Where’d you stay? What did you like? What would you do differently? And so forth. So here you go, let me know what you think. Meanwhile, back to planning the next adventure!

Overview: London (4 days) > York (2 days) > Edinburgh (3 days), following two days in Zurich and three days in Strasburg, France.

The Bottom Line: Christmas and New Years in the UK is a special time to visit, as nothing quite warms you up from the winter cold like a nice warm pub, especially all lit up for the holidays like the Churchill Arms, and Hogmany in Edinburgh is a world-renowned New Years Eve party, even if you choose to avoid ground zero and enjoy the festivities from a distance.

We had a brilliant time in merry old London, arriving Christmas Eve with Emily & Alex, Anna, and nephew Chris. Though 4 days is really not enough to do London justice, we still managed our fair share of incredible culture, history, and historic pubs. Highlights:

• Our 3BR Airbnb apartment in the neighborhood of Kensington was a perfect base. Right by Hyde Park, easy food shopping nearby, the Elephant & Castle pub literally outside our doorstep, and three other great pubs – Churchill Arms, Windsor Castle and Prince of Wales – a short walk away. 
• If you go during Christmas, popping in to the Churchill Arms (just up the street from our place) for drinks is mandatory. They do Christmas decorations right!
• Christmas dinner at the Park Terrace Restaurant at the Royal Garden Hotel, right on the edge of Hyde Park, was a very nice splurge. 
• Exploring the neighborhoods of Soho, Whitechapel and Shoreditch, the latter two once downtrodden but now quite lively and a bit less touristy. Plenty of good restaurants and pubs, including the Duke of Argyll, with its small upstairs dining room and fireplace.
• Daytime tours of the Churchill War Rooms and HMS Belfast are both outstanding, especially the former. Buy an inexpensive Imperial War Museums annual membership and save a ton of time skipping to the front of the line.
• The Borough Market, a huge open air market, was a big hit for the entire family.
• Walking the city at night, especially when the Tower of London, Westminster Abbey and Tower Bridge are all lit up. Of course, frequent pub stops are a must as it’s very thirsty work.
• Other favorite pubs we hit included the Old Bank, Lamb & Flag, the Tipperary (oldest Irish pub in London), Blackfriar’s, Cheshire Cheese, Round House, Porcupine, Crown & Shuttle, and the Toucan (best Guinness in town).

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Took the train from London to York for our two-night stay. 48 hours was just about right. 1900-year old, small and completely walkable walled old town center with fascinating Roman, Viking and English history. Oh, and great food and pubs. Highlights:

• York Minster is the largest gothic cathedral north of the Alps. Headless statues inside are called the “semaphore saints”, as they are signaling “Christ is here” as a response to Henry VIII who had decapitated Catholic statues so their haloes would not be seen.
• Walking the city walls for great history and terrific views.
• House of Trembling Madness was our favorite pub in town, both for the beers and the ambience. Walls are covered with animal heads and the old timbered ceiling is very cool.
• In addition to being a hotel and restaurant, the Guy Fawkes Inn, named for one of the principals involved in the Gunpowder Conspiracy of 1605, which planned to blow up the House of Lords in London, also has a cool bar and, on some nights, live blues music. We caught a local duo doing a blistering set of American blues.
• The traditional Sunday Roast with Yorkshire Pudding at the Ye Olde Starre Inne.

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Took the morning train to Edinburgh, arriving in time for lunch on New Year’s Eve. Our stay at Old Town Chambers, just off the Royal Mile, was recommended by our friends Paul and Deb and was perfect. Highlights:

• Walking the Royal Mile end to end is a must, despite being ground zero for touristy Old Edinburgh. There’s a reason for it. Enjoyed our stop at the World’s End pub, but skipped Deacon Brodie’s, inspiration for the tale of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde.
• Edinburgh Castle, at the top of the Royal Mile, is massive, quite spectacular, and a very worthwhile visit. Tons of history and incredible sights.
• Celebrate Hogmanay from the top of Calton Hill, overlooking the fireworks and the spectacle of all the revelers “down there’ in the town center.
• Grassmarket neighborhood behind Edinburgh Castle is a good stroll, with lots of decent restaurants and bars away from all the crowds.
• Day hike up to Arthur’s Seat, a very popular hike with spectacular views. Fairly chilly and the wind was howling, all the more the closer we got to the top. Afterward, hike down the back side for a hot lunch and beers (or the excellent blackberry and thistle cider) at the Sheep Heid Inn, one of two pubs we found claiming to be the oldest in Edinburgh.
• Kay’s Bar, a tiny Victorian bar in a quiet residential neighborhood between the Old Town and New Town, was a real treat. 100% locals – who will quickly chat you up, recognizing you immediately as a stranger – with a tiny coal fireplace and excellent whisky selection.

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